Along the shores of the Sea of Galilee |
"Leaving Nazareth, he went and lived in Capernaum, which was by the lake." (Matthew 4:13)
From the Cove of the Sower/Bay of Parables we head a short distance east (.6 mile to be exact) to the small palm and cypress-shaded archaeological site of Capernaum. Located about 10 miles north of Tiberias, on the northern edge of the Plain of Gennesaret, this ancient place is without doubt the most famous of the bBiblical towns on the Sea of Galilee.
Capernaum Until a few decades ago, little was known about Capernaum; even its location was open to question.
The blue and white sign at the site entrance (left, with flowering bougainvillea) reads "Capharnaum the town of Jesus" (an explanation of the spelling follows). Why, at the age of 34, by one reckoning, did Jesus, an artisan-craftsman from the small highland village of Nazareth, move 20 miles to the northeast to take up life as itinerant preacher in Capernaum? While Matthew says it was because the people of Nazareth lacked faith (Matthew 13:58), Jesus probably selected Capernaum due to its location and the quality of its lifestyle. Capernaum lies almost 700 feet below sea level and has a subtropical climate. Although summer temperatures lingered around 90º - 95º F, water was plentiful. To the south lay the fertile plain of Gennesaret, fed by several small springs; one, called Ein-et-Tin ("fountain of the fig"), passed the south edge of the town. The city stood at the north end of the Sea of Galilee, three miles west of the Jordan inlet. It was prominently situated on the Via Maris, the main trade road running northward from Egypt along the Mediterranean coast to Caesarea. There the route split, one branch continuing north into Lebanon, the other passing through the Jezreel Valley and over to the Sea of Galilee, where it went around the west side of the lake through Capernaum, then on toward the Golan Heights, Damascus and Mesopotamia (the lakeside road that we have been following north of Tiberias uses the same route). Capernaum, belying its modest size, controlled all trade along this important international highway. Secondly, Capernaum was sufficiently apart from the larger towns of Galilee and lacked the strong Roman political pressures of Sepphoris (the former Galilee administrative center) and Tiberias (the new Galilee capital). It was also located on the route from territories ruled by the tetrarchs (from Greek tetrarches, literally "governor of a fourth part") Herod Antipas and Herod Philip, the sons of Herod the Great. Thus, Jesus had easy transportation and was able to take his message to other towns around the lake and inland to the different territories of the region, and he could easily cross the border into a different political jurisdictions without running into trouble too soon with the political and religious leaders. In contrast to his Jewish-only home village of Nazareth, the population of Capernaum was highly varied: fishermen, farmers, artisans, merchants, tax collectors, Roman soldiers, all apparently living in harmony. Judging from the reconstructed homes there was little difference between the rich and poor classes, no palaces in contrast to hovels. Along with the fishing industry, and the farming of nearby plain of Gennesaret, there was also a stone-working trade. The local population carved the abundant basalt rock in the area into mortars and pestles, olive-presses and grist mill wheels. The city was self-sufficient, and was never greatly improved by the rulers, Jewish nor Roman. All great building projects went to Tiberias. Still, Capernaum was a prosperous city, and work was available. In all, it must have been a pleasant place to live. It is certainly a pleasant site to visit! Origin of the name Capernaum is actually a composite of the Semitic words caphar (also spelled kafr, meaning "village") and nahum with the "h" dropped, meaning "village of nahum." Nahum is listed as one of the so-called minor prophets, and the Old Testament book of Nahum is named for him. Also, Luke 3:25 lists a Nahum among Jesus' ancestral line. Despite this, the origin of the town's name is uncertain. According to several sources, Nahum was a common Hebrew name at the time; it means "comfort" or "consolation." Therefore Capernaum can also be translated "village of comfort," an appropriate name for the place where Jesus was welcomed after his rejection in his hometown of Nazareth. |
![]() Left, aerial view of the Franciscan excavations of Capernaum: Upper right: 4th-5th century AD synagogue of white limestone, but it probably sits on the foundations of the one in which Jesus worshiped and taught. Lower left: the octagonal roof of the modern church built over the remains of what are believed to be the home of Simon Peter. Note the foundations of the "insula" (a kind of city block) style homes where the townspeople lived. Until recently only this small area has been excavated; the town extended much farther east (bottom right corner of photo) along the lakeshore. Ancient Capernaum stretched east to west for nearly 1000 feet along the lake shore and for some 600 feet from the lake shore to the hills (south to north). At its maximum size during the Byzantine period, Capernaum numbered some 1,500 inhabitants, far inferior to the large cities around the lake. Nearby Magdala, for example, had a population of some 40,000 at the time of the First Jewish Revolt (according to 1st century AD Jewish historian Josephus Flavius, but likely exaggerated). But, as an economic center in the Galilee it was more significant than tradition has allowed. Capernaum controlled at least 5 miles of the lake shore and was important enough to have a contingent of Roman soldiers (most likely mercenaries) whose purpose it was to guard the border between the territories of Herod Antipas and Herod Philip. It was commanded by a centurion (Matthew 8:5-8) who, although a pagan (but not necessarily a Roman), contributed greatly to the building of a synagogue for the town's Jewish community, while the elders reciprocated in kindness and pleaded earnestly with Jesus asking him to heal the centurion's servant. They told Jesus, "This man deserves to have you do this because he loves our nation and has built our synagogue" (Luke 7:5). Capernaum also had a customs house where new arrivals paid tolls to Herod Antipas' tax collectors. These officials were reviled by the Jewish inhabitants, who saw them as collaborators in a harsh and corrupt political system. They collected taxes on everything imported and exported. There were taxes for using a main road, a market, a harbor, for entering a walled town, also on animals, carts, wheels and axles. Undoubtedly the fisherman/disciples, Peter and Andrew, took up residence in Capernaum to avoid paying high tolls when crossing the border when coming from their native town of Bethsaida, to the east in the territory of Herod Philip. One of these reviled officials was a man named Levi (Matthew) and one day, Jesus passed by his tax booth and said, "Follow me," forever changing his life and calling. While feasting in Matthew's Capernaum house (Matthew 9:10), Jesus' was criticized for associating with "tax collectors and sinners," but he responded with "it is not the healthy who need a doctor, but the sick. I have not come to call the righteous, but sinners to repentance" (Luke 5:31-32).
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Exploring the site of Capernaum:
A house of this kind, entered from the public street through a single doorway, was probably shared by two or more families. The image of everyone living and working harmoniously in their "insula" dwellings made up of numerous small rooms provided Jesus with the perfect picture of heaven as he taught the people in John 14:2-3:
Light came from a series of windows
facing the inner courtyard. However, the lava-rock walls were not strong
enough to support a tile roof* (no red ceramic tile fragments have been
found at the site). Instead, roofs were made by laying beams across
the width of the walls, and placing smaller beams at right angles across
them. Thick layers of straw and reeds were placed on the A few days after healing a man with leprosy at an unspecified location in Galilee, Jesus returned to Capernaum. Even though Jesus had sent the man away with a strong warning not tell anyone, he talked freely. News of the miracle spread like wildfire and as Jesus sat in a home responding to questioning by a group of suspicious and curious "teachers of the law," the street outside became so crowded with people wanting to hear or catch a glimpse of him that "there was no room left, not even outside the door" (Mark 2:2). As Jesus taught in the overcrowded room, four men carrying a paralyzed man on a pallet tried to enter to house, but found the crowd so densely packed that that there was no possibility of bringing their friend into the presence of the one they believed could heal him. As they stood at the edge of the crowd pondering their dilemma, one had an inspiration. The four men climbed up on to the roof and began digging through the roof of the crowded room. As the dust and small pieces of clay and straw began falling on those gathered inside, they must have questioned the sanity of whoever was attempting to unroof the house. As the faithful four began lowering their friend through the opening, Jesus looked up toward them:
In the Jewish culture of Jesus' time, a connection was made between sins and physical suffering. Some of the more conservative of the religious leaders sitting there thought to themselves: "Who does this man think he is. Only God can forgive sins!" Jesus knew what they were thinking and said to them:
Here, Jesus accepts the link between sin and the man's disability and, by forgiving his sin, makes possible a total cure of both mind and body. He thus shows that his power is the power of God, proving his divinity. |
| * Luke's version of this account is marked by an adaptation to the evangelist's Greek audience. When the men go up on the roof, they lower their paralyzed friend down "through the tiles." Both versions, however, focus on the determination and faith of the helpers, and the compassion of Jesus. |
Capernaum's synagogue
The prosperity of this ancient Jewish community is apparent in its synagogue, whose restored remains are seen in northern part of the excavations (see photos below). It was built in the center of the town and was surrounded on all sides by streets. In striking contrast to the private houses of black basalt stones, the synagogue was built almost entirely with shining white limestone blocks—apparently polished to resemble marble—brought from quarries several miles away, the heaviest being almost four tons. Like most synagogues in Palestine, it faced south toward Jerusalem, reflecting the practice of offering prayers toward the Holy City as related in both rabbinical teaching and the Old Testament:
"When your people go to war against their enemies, wherever you send them, and when they pray to the Lord towards the city you have chosen and the temple I have built for your name." (1 Kings 8:44)
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| Above left, north wall in the prayer hall of the partially reconstructed
4th-5th century AD synagogue, built with white limestone. Above right,
the wall section seen on the far right was the main entrance and it faces
south toward the lake and Jerusalem. The synagogue had four areas: a prayer hall, an eastern courtyard, a southern porch, and a side-room near the outer corner of the prayer hall. On the side facing the lake (south) the synagogue had three doors and a large window. The interior was more than 70 feet long and 50 feet wide and it had an upper floor intended for women. Rows of columns ran between the three aisles and along the front end. Along the left side were stone benches. A Greek inscription on one Corinthian column reads: "Herod, son of Monimus, and his son Justus, with their children, erected this column."
However, this "white synagogue" was not the one Jesus taught in, as related in Mark 1:21ff. This was proven by several seasons of excavations. Beneath the synagogue floor, archaeologists found more than 10,000 Roman coins from the 4th and 5th centuries AD. In the course of further digging, a black basalt wall was discovered running underneath the limestone blocks (right). At first it was assumed that it was a foundation, but at one corner, the basalt wall did not align with the limestone structure above. After more digging below the synagogue's limestone paving, a cobbled floor of black basalt was found, scattered with potsherds (pieces of broken pottery) dated to the 1st century AD. Taking into account the fact that the Jews of the ancient world customarily built new synagogues on the sites of older ones, it was probably the one built by the Roman centurion (Luke 7:1-5) and the place where Jesus often taught and delivered sermons. One of his most important sermons here concerned the bread of life:
The prayer hall and the side-room were built in the late 4th century AD; an eastern courtyard was added later and was completed after the mid-5th century AD; at the same time the southern porch was remodeled. The synagogue remained in use from then on until its abandonment during the 7th century AD. The home of Simon Peter?
In the foreground are the remains of "Insula II," between the synagogue and the Catholic church. These private houses lie between two parallel east to west streets (left to right in photo) and a broader "main" street between them (also refer to the aerial view at the top of the page). Constructed by the Franciscans in 1990, one guidebook sarcastically calls it "an ugly chapel that resembles a flying saucer hovering above the ruins!" It was built over the remains of a domestic dwelling of about 25 square feet with an outer courtyard. Sometime towards the end of the 1st century AD it had been transformed into a house-church for the local community of Jewish-Christians (their synagogue). Possibly it was the earliest church in the Holy Land and it appears to have been the same building described by a Spanish pilgrim, the Lady Egeria, who visited the site sometime between 381-384 AD during her pilgrimage to the Holy Land:
Excavators found no household utensils from this period, but the walls had been replastered at least three times and on the white plaster were some 131 inscriptions in Aramaic, Greek, Syriac and Latin with such words as "Jesus," "Lord," "Christ," "Peter," "Amen" and "Kyrie Eleison." One phrase is a prayer reading: "O Lord Jesus Christ help...and..." (the two missing names are indecipherable). There were also painted floral motifs in different colors, namely red, pink, dark red, yellow, dark brown, green, blue and white. The decoration consisted of branches, trees, flowers, figs, pomegranates, Eucharist symbols and a sign of the cross. No human or animal images were used. Fish hooks were also discovered there. In the 4th century AD
this primitive house-church/synagogue was enlarged by adding a covered
portico on the east. An arch was built in the main room to support a heavier
roof, and the complex was also set apart from the rest of the town by an
im Then, in the second half of the 5th century AD, a church was built over it, consisting of a small central octagon (left)—the preferred form for a memorial at the time—surrounded by a larger octagon and another outer partial octagon (5 sides), that served as an entrance hall. This is similar in form to the rotunda of the original church of the Holy Sepulcher built by Constantine (4th century AD) and the Muslim Dome of the Rock on the Haram esh-Sharif (the Temple Mount) in Jerusalem. The central octagon had a mosaic floor dominated by a peacock—an early Christian symbol of the resurrection, and thus of immortality—its body encircled by its colorful tail. It was beneath this mosaic that excavators uncovered the one-room house believed to have been the home of Simon Peter. In the 6th century, the Piacenza Pilgrim wrote, "The house of St. Peter is now a basilica." Like the nearby synagogue, the octagonal church was destroyed early in the 7th century AD, possibly at the time of the Persian invasion (614 AD). Because this house was regarded with such exceptional reverence by the earliest Christians, there is a real possibility that this was indeed the dwelling of Peter and his family. If indeed this was the home of Peter, he and his brother Andrew needed to walk only a short distance south to the lake to begin their work-night (as stated earlier, fisherman on the Sea of Galilee worked their trade after dark, refer to Luke 5:5). More significantly, it was where Jesus frequently stayed, and where he cured Peter's mother-in-law of a fever:
Here, too, Jesus would have shared many a meal with Peter, his wife and his in-laws. Unlike in the villas and palaces with their elegant dining rooms and banquets for show, meals in Capernaum and other 1st century AD Galilee villages were family affairs. In the short rainy and cold season, they took place in one of the larger rooms; in the hot summers everyone gathered in shaded portions of the courtyard. Stews of olive oil, lentils, beans or vegetables were ladled on pita bread. Olives and perhaps bits of cheese or fruit were passed around. Naturally, there was fish—salted, dried or grilled—and a local wine to take the edge off a hard day's labor. If nothing else, "Peter's House" is a good visual aid to help picture Jesus' life in Capernaum. |
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Other insights: The Capernaum site also includes an open-air archaeological museum to the right and left of the entrance. Among the relics on display:
The open-air museum also displays several stone reliefs that once decorated the synagogue, all reflecting the Greek influence so strong in ancient Galilee, and a liberal interpretation of Jewish law, which prohibited carved images (there are no human depictions):
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Capernaum after the time of Jesus: During the first four centuries of the Christian era, Capernaum had both orthodox Jews and Christian Jews. In 5th century AD Capernaum the white synagogue and the octagonal church operated as rivals. While the church announced Christianity and a Christian empire in the town's public space, the Jews of Capernaum countered with their own architectural statement. Just a block north of, and facing the church, they built their large synagogue. Its walls, paving stones and columns were made of white limestone brought in from farther west in Galilee; it was in stark contrast with the dark gray buildings of the town. By the mid-5th century the Christian population was largely Gentile. Capernaum came under Arab control in 638 AD and both the synagogue and church built over Peter's house were abandoned. A 746 AD earthquake ended the prosperity of the settlement. Poorly rebuilt, its decline was progressive until the site was abandoned in the 11th century AD. Later, the site was called Tanhum because of the burial of Rabbi Tanhum there. The Bedouin then called it Talhum and early travelers thus knew it as Tell Hum. Most of the village lay buried by erosion from the surrounding hills
until excavations began in the mid-19th century AD. More recent excavations
by the Franciscans took place from 1968-1984; also in the Greek Orthodox
managed sector in 1987. While the Greek Orthodox side has yet to be fully
explored, in the late 1980's a bathhouse was found there which was dated
to the late 1st or early 2nd century AD, when
Roman legionnaires were stationed permanently in Galilee after the Second
Jewish Revolt (132-135 AD). Built in typical Roman style, with a cold-water
room (frigidarium), warm-water room (tepdarium), hot-steam
room (calderium) and a changi Right, excavations of homes at Capernaum in the area east of the "white" synagogue and the modern Catholic church. Note, on the left, the unexcavated dirt fill from centuries of erosion that once covered the entire town site. |
For Christian pilgrims, Capernaum is a must-see. A few hours walking among the ruins truly brings life to many of the incidents surrounding Jesus' years in the Galilee. It's not hard to visualize Jesus standing on the street outside Peter's house talking to groups of people, teaching in the town synagogue, healing the lame and demon-possessed, or sitting on the sea wall along the lakeshore, huddled with his disciples around a fire, boats thumping against the nearby dock in time with the gently rolling waves.
Continue following Jesus' Galilee ministry
Olives and olive processing In Biblical times, green olives were
harvested beginning in September and continued through November; also in
November the fully mature Olives were poured into the stone basin, and the first pressing took place. With the type of press shown here (right), a man or donkey pushed a beam to rotate the millstone, which crushed the olives. Wedges and washers kept the stone from also crushing the pits, which could contaminate the oil with sediment. Workers then scooped the crushed olives into loosely woven baskets and allowed the oil to drain into vats. This first pressing produced the finest grade oil ("extra virgin" in modern terminology), used in lamps and cosmetics and for ritual anointing.
There was no waste when processing olives; the oil residue was used to make soap, the crushed pits and hulls were used for animal food or dried to burn for heat. Quality rotary mills, like the one shown above, were expensive; they were carved from the hard basalt stone found in the Capernaum area. Such olive presses have been found throughout Palestine indicating that Capernaum was a center for their manufacture. In Hebrew "olive press" is gath shemen, in Aramaic, gat shamna—the derivation of a well-known place name found in the Gospel Passion narratives—"Gethsemane" (simply meaning "oil press"). |