Along the shores of the Sea of Galilee |
"Woe to you, Korazin! Woe to you, Bethsaida" (Luke 10:13).
Our minds filled with images of Jesus' life and ministry centered in Capernaum, our tour bus takes us east a short distance to a road going north away from the Sea of Galilee, climbing above sea level, first to Almagor, then a little farther on, to the site of the once flourishing Jewish town of Korazin (also spelled Chorazin).
Korazin (Greek, of uncertain derivation, meaning "a furnace of smoke")
has been described as "Capernaum with a view (of the lake)" Also
on the Via Maris, it was situated high on the basalt hills above Capernaum,
about 2 miles up the steep Right, looking toward the Bethsaida plain from the area of Korazin. In the Gospels, Korazin ("Chorazin" in KJV and ASV) is best known as one of the cities (together with Bethsaida and Capernaum) condemned by Jesus for failing to accept his teachings:
Remains at the site include residential buildings, streets, houses, ritual bath (mikveh), olive press and a large 4th-5th century AD synagogue (right). Built, like the rest of the town's houses, of local black basalt stone, it stood on an elevated area in the center of the town. It was approached by two flights of steps and is in the form of a basilica with three aisles (as at Capernaum). Around the walls were stone benches on which the community sat during worship services. This imposing structure is probably one of the most beautiful lesser-known ancient synagogues in Israel. It clearly attests to a mastery of stonework by its builders who ingeniously worked within the limitations of their primary building material. Basalt can become brittle and break easily, limiting the length of support beams, which averaged about six feet in length. This restricted the size of the rooms that could be built. To support these beams, internal walls were built, while in other instances a beam was placed between arched openings (six feet from the wall) and the outer wall. The rich ornamentation of the stones tell us that Korazin was not an impoverished community!
The town and the synagogue appear to have been destroyed in the latter part of the 4th century AD (earthquake?) and both were rebuilt in the 5th century AD. Jewish fishermen lived in Korazin as late as the 16th century AD. Right, excavations of the black basalt buildings at Korazin From Korazin, we backtrack to the lakeside road and head roughly 1 mile northeast to the Arik Bridge (below left), an army construction of wooden planks that takes us across the Jordan River. For those of us who grew up with images of this famed river in children's Bible story books are soon disappointed by its somewhat muddy appearance. At this point, so near its sources, it is surprising to see how small a stream it really is. Seldom more than 30 feet wide, it is often shallow enough to wade through. The Jordan enters the Sea of Galilee a few hundred yards to our right. Along the road we note a number of yellow signs with red triangles (below right) informing us in three languages of the presence of mine fields in the area. We shudder collectively when our guide Doran warns us never to venture off the road. "Obey the signs and you'll be safe!" he says, with a little more force.
Soon after the Arik bridge a left turn onto Route 888 takes us to the Jordan River Park and the north-south mound (tell) of Bethsaida. At the time of Jesus, Bethsaida was part of the pagan territory of Gaulanitis (Golan Heights), ruled by the tetrarch Herod Philip. Bethsaida is best known to Christians as the hometown of three of Jesus' disciples: Philip and the brothers Simon Peter and Andrew. Bethsaida - a lost city rediscovered Many pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land are under the impression that all of the sites mentioned in the Bible have been found and can be visited. Alas, a good number of the places in the Scriptures have yet to be positively identified; some, like Bethsaida, have only recently been located. In the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD, Bethsaida was destroyed by two earthquakes and never rebuilt. The town simply disappeared and for years its exact location was even questioned. Researchers have uncovered 27 pilgrim accounts from the Middle Ages describing their attempts to find the city but, they simply had no idea where it had been. With no consensus reached as to its location, it simply slept, forgotten, for 1700 years. Happily, however, it has again been found, but not on the shore of the Sea of Galilee as expected.
Beginning in 1989, the State of Israel recognized et-Tel as the official
location of Bethsaida on Israeli maps and, in 1991, the Bethsaida Excavation
Project, housed at the University of Omaha, was formed to supervise recovery of
the site, which is one of the largest artificial mounds ever discovered on the
Sea of Galilee. Excavations are ongoing and it is assumed that further finds
await the archeologists' spades. In 1998, after ten years of excavation,
Bethsaida was opened to the public for the first time, and it is the only place
where one can actually see the remains of an entire city of the Biblical era
which was not rebuilt in intervening centuries. Building material wasn't removed
for use in later structures, and no churches were constructed over the ruins (as
in other Galilee cities like Capernaum and Nazareth). The ruins of the town that Right, the Jordan River as it nears the Sea of Galilee in the Jordan River Park at the site of Bethsaida. Bethsaida means "house of the hunter" or "house of the fisherman" (the latter is preferable because of its location). It was already an ancient place when Jesus visited it. During the time of King David, the thriving city served as the capitol of the kingdom of Geshur, but it was destroyed in 732 BC by the Assyrian king, Tiglath-Pileser III. Soon after the conquest of Alexander the Great in 332 BC, new life was infused into the town. New markets were opened to the Phoenician coastal cities to the west. New settlers came to Bethsaida and to other places in Galilee and developed merchandise such as wine, olive oil, linen and dried fish. In 90 BC the Seleucid dynasty, which ruled over Syria and Mesopotamia, collapsed and never recovered. A few years later, the Hasmonean ruler Alexander Jannaeus invaded the former Seleucid territories and conquered Galilee and Gaulanitis. Mimicking his father's earlier actions in Idumea he forcibly converted the local Phoenician population and brought in Jewish settlers. At the time of Jesus Bethsaida was a large village covering an area of about
20 acres. The ancient city walls could still be seen so that it looked like a
fortified village. Still, it was a working-class settlement populated by hard
working people living a simple, no frill
Contemporary Jewish historian Josephus Flavius related (Antiquities
of the Jews, book 18, chapter 2:1) that the tetrarch Herod Philip, one
of the sons of Herod the Great, whose territory included the northern part
of the country (the Golan Heights), elevated the city to the status of a
Greek city-state (polis) and renamed it Bethsaida-Julias, in honor
of Julia, the rebellious and morally-lax daughter of the former Roman emperor,
Augustus, and wife of the current emperor, Tiberius. (As Julia was exiled
in 2 BC, this must have taken place before that date). Philip also built
a lavishly decorated temple on the highest spot of the town. In recent years
cult objects were found in and around
the temple, including a pair of bronze incense shovels, pottery jugs and
juglets used for ritual practices, figurines, amulets and votive objects.
The building had particularly thick walls; stones decorated with meander
and floral motifs suggest its elegance. The temple did not serve for more
than a century, however. The excavations reveal that during the 2n Right, view from Bethsaida towards the Jordan River Apparently Bethsaida was an important city in the Galilee-Golan area at this time for, according to Josephus, Philip died in the city after a reign of 37 years and was buried there with great ceremony. He had lived out his life quietly with his own domain, enjoying his final years with his wife, Salome—the same Salome who had danced for Antipas and requested the head of John the Baptist. Bethsaida is mentioned in the Gospels more often than any other town except Jerusalem and Capernaum. It is known as the birthplace of three of Jesus' disciples: Peter, Andrew and Philip. Jesus himself visited Bethsaida and performed several miracles there:
Note: The number of baskets of leftover food—twelve—is obviously related to the twelve tribes of Israel. Perhaps the symbolic message here is that this is a Messiah who cares for ALL of the Jewish people. Also, the type of basket used in this account is called, in Greek, kophinos, a large round basket for carrying items on the head, in the time honored Middle Eastern tradition.
In Mark's Gospel, Jesus cures a blind man at Bethsaida:
Mark also locates one of Jesus' most famous miracles—his walk on the water—near Bethsaida:
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| A "watch" was a period of time during which a guard detail was on duty, at the end of which others relieved them. After the Jews became subject to the Romans, they adopted the Roman custom of dividing the night into four watches. The "fourth watch" was the last time period leading up to the sunrise. |
Two things to notice about this account: First, it is amazing that when
one of the characteristic squalls—caused by cold winds from the west, or
from the north channeled down the Jordan River gorge—struck the Sea of
Galilee, Jesus simply sat on the mountainside for some 6 to 8 hours observing
the disciples struggling against the wind to reach the shore! Second, as
he is walking toward the Bethsaida (with nearby Korazin) was also the target of a curse by Jesus for not responding to his message:
Right, looking toward the hilltop location of Korazin from Bethsaida. |
With the sun low on the western horizon, we head back to the bus, exhilarated by all the images that now fill our heads. Never again will we be able read the Gospel accounts of Jesus' life and ministry along the shores of the Sea of Galilee and separate them from the smells, sounds and sights now ingrained in our imaginations.